Killer Dana Board Society

Looking at a map, one could think that Tahiti, French Polynesia, located in the middle of the Pacific ocean, is faaaarrr away from everything. This is true, but not quite.

Even though I have to admit that our tourism industry is not the best in the Pacific area, I can not deny the fact that Tahiti and her islands do attract people from many different horizons: for spending so much time in the water, I meet lots of foreigners coming from the United states, France, New Caledonia, Australia, New Zealand, Brazil, Mexico, and even Japan…

Although our islands have always been well-known for what they can offer in terms of quality of life, landscapes and waves, I guess Teahupoo’s exposure has a lot to do with the increasing number of surfers coming over here.

And that is probably one of the things that I like about living in French Polynesia: having the opportunity to spend time with people coming from so many different cultures & backgrounds, sharing waves and stories… just making friends. I get in the water, take a look around and often notice someone new in the line up. “Hmmm… new face… obviously not from here…wonder where he (or she) comes from…”

And the guys always start the conversation the same way: how fun the waves are, how lucky I am to live here, and how well I surfed my last wave. Such a classic, I know!

Anyways… this is how I met this bunch of surfers traveling aboard the beautiful catamaran Natural Mystic, owned by Santa Barbara native Kyber Logue, who one day decided to devote his life to the endless pursuit of fun & happiness, chasing waves and wind around the globe (www.mysticsail.com): the guy sailed all the way from the US east coast, going through the British Virgin Islands, the Carribean and the Galapagos, picking up his crew along the way, to finally reach the islands of French Polynesia a few months ago.

The crew had been scoring waves around Tahiti for a few weeks when I met them in Moorea, and these guys being so friendly (and so cute, ha ha!), I decided to hang out with them as long as my free time would allow me to.

In my mind are memories of those great moments spent together, from the heavy Teahupoo line up (these were not that great actually; I have a few scars to prove it) to the quiet lagoon of Bora Bora aboard Natural Mystic: those moments were all about sharing waves and sunsets, dinners and laughter, drinks and stories, with Kyber the American, Dizzy the Ozzie, Kahlil the Kiwi and Dom the Mexican/Canadian.

I still remember those awesome sunset sessions, all those waves shared, and those evenings spent on the trampoline looking at the stars and making a wish for every shooting star I could see (yes, still a kiddo).

Thinking about them and all the surfers I made friends with (either here or abroad), made me realize that surfing does bring people together, no matter who they are or where they come from… I believe that being in the water, paddling for the same wave, feeling the same adrenaline rush, enjoying every nice turn, cheering for each other, just sharing the same passion for waves and life, definitely break boundaries. And thinking about all the conversations we had, I also ended up realizing that our stories are all intertwined, in a way or another.

The Natty M guys have now gone their separate ways, leaving their Tahitian friends in the wake: Dizzy went back to Tasmania via Samoa, Kahlil made it home to New Zealand after a stop in Fiji and Dom is in Canada. As for Kyber, captain and owner of beautiful Natural Mystic, only God knows where he is, this one is hard to track!

And yes, that’s the sad part about living here: seeing your friends leaving, missing them, but hoping to see them again some time in the future, somewhere on this planet; after all, the world is round…

Vainui

Today we’re feeling extra nice n’ wanna give you guys some free stuff! We currently have a plethora of rad Quiksilver hats (donated to us from your lovely friends over at Quik, thank you)

We decided to go with a great idea from our friend Apryl, “Send in your thoughtful comments on what your favorite surf-related charity is?!” Let’s branch out from our awesome favorites (Surfrider, SurfAid) and here about some other charities that might not have a lot of publicity.

So there you have it, first ten people to do so get a random Quiksilver hat!

Free shipping to U.S. residents only.

The first time I heard about bio diesel was back in my college days in the one place where you would actually hear about these things, Santa Cruz Ca. I didn’t really know anything about it, but the idea of driving around without having to pay for gas sounded pretty good to me (more beer money).

To be honest I still don’t know too much about it, but after watching this cool interview I have a better idea of what is going on in the world of bio diesel cars, or buses for that matter. Mike Parziale has a pretty cool thing going with his Grease not Gas program and the Grease Bus.

A ten dollar ride for a four hour bus ride from Portland to Mt. Hood. Not too shabby. Check out the interview and become a little more informed.

I share my time between the islands of Tahiti & Moorea (say Mo-o-re-a, “yellow lizard”), staying in Tahiti from Monday to Friday, and going to Moorea nearly every week-end: it’s a great getaway, located only 20 miles north west of Tahiti. If I could, I would spend 100% of my time over there, because it is the place where I am happiest.

I fell in love with this island, although I don’t really know why; I’ve always found it hard to answer this kind of question… I guess that’s because love cannot be explained, no matter how hard you try; it goes beyond reason and understanding, despite what some people may think. But I’ll try anyway…

There’s only one road going all around the island, with the mountains on one side, and the ocean on the other. The drive to go all the way to my place is the very first thing that makes me feel good when I get there: I love to look at the mountains and valleys, to check the different surf spots on the way home, to watch the colors in the sky (especially in the late afternoon) and, above all, to say hi every 10 minutes to someone I know, either driving or riding their bikes. It feels like home, way more than Tahiti, even tough I was born and raised on the latter.

Moorea is beautiful, with deep-green mountains, beautiful colors, white sand beaches and clear water everywhere you look. I love the south west side of the island even more, probably because it is so green, with fewer houses (great, that’s where I live!). It is a peaceful and relaxing place (if you’re looking for big parties and city lights, definitely NOT where you want to go): it is just great to have a drink on the beach with my buddies while watching the sunset, or to walk all the way to the same beach in the morning in my PJs with my glass of cold water to check the swell and the wind, and make plans for the day from what I see (“surfing or kiting?? Hmm, both I guess!”).

For sure, the reef breaks the island offers are great: you can find pretty much everything you want: rights and lefts, mellow or hollow… I especially love the one located 5 minutes away from my place, which is a great, long rippable left where most of my friends surf. Depending on the tide and swell direction, you can get barreled really deep or just shred the wave, turn after turn

I even enjoy the 30 minute paddle it takes me to reach the waves; even though it’s a fairly long one, I take advantage of this “me time” to look at the fish and stingrays swimming underneath my board, to appreciate the fresh air and clear water and to watch the mountains facing the break. I try not to look too much at the waves though, especially when they’re perfect, because then the paddle seems twice as long: “What? Nobody on this one? OMG, it’s soooo perfect! I’m not paddling fast enough, it’s going to be crowded when I get there! Gotta go faster, quick, quick!!!” You know what I mean?

As for the kite beach, it is probably one of my favorite places to hang out, and I usually stay there all day long: it’s a beautiful white sand beach with small coconut trees and a turquoise lagoon; there are kites flying everywhere (duh!) and easy going people laughing, chatting, cheering on each other, and playing ukulele between 2 kite sessions. I love to rest in the shade of “my tree”, talking with the girls, drinking water and snacking on cookies, while watching my friends doing mind-blowing tricks, before going back in the water for my second or third session (yep, up to 4 sessions a day!)…

I also love to ride my bike to the north shore of the island, all the way to the bays where I get to see the sailboats & catamarans anchored in the lagoon. When I reach the first bay after a 35 minute ride, I usually turn right and keep biking inland, following a narrow road that goes up in the mountains, where I end up having a great view over the 2 bays with Mount Rotui in between.

The island also offers a great variety of trails to go hiking, from very easy to incredibly challenging, from 30 minutes to more than 3 hours. It’s a great workout, and a nice change from being in the water all day (but to tell you the truth, I only do that when there’s no waves and no wind). I love to walk and run uphill in the tropical woods, to cross the rivers, to look for wild pigs’ traces (although I wouldn’t be very happy to face one) and to admire the view over the ocean and the island when I reach the end of the trail.

Wow… I’ve just realized that writing these words helped me understand why I love this island so much: because when I’m in Moorea, my life is all about fun & friendship, in breath-taking surroundings.

Hhhmmm, interesting… I guess that love can be explained, after all…

Vainui

Photos by: Fabrice Chiausa

What’s the Girls Scouts motto?! Be ready for anything…? Yea something like that. I never was a Girl Scout, but I sure was a Indian Princesses with my Dad! Those were the good times, camping every month and being outside everyday. Loved it! I’m pretty sure our motto was “Always friends”.

Anyway, my inspiration for the week definitely has to be this Take a Hike theme. It’s full out outdoorsie gear, flannels, earth-tones, and adventure!

I’m totally digging this new Hurley Jamison Parka Jacket that we have. It has this awesome parka lining that can zip up separately from the rest of the jacket (which is great for when you need to shed off a layer).  The RVCA Clover Dress is a favorite that we’ve had since Summer, but don’t let that detour you. The style is still killer and deserves to be carried into your Fall wardrobe.

Also be sure to check out some accessories like the Hurley O&O Military Hat. This little guy is perfect for sun protection and has a great fit. Last but not least you should definitely invest in some warm and cozy boots, like these Sanuk Boots (which are my favorite)!

Get out there,

Kacee

The Ecology Center in San Juan Capistrano was founded by avid surfer and environmental activist Evan Marks… and they’re looking for volunteers!

They need your help!

The Ecology Center is a nonprofit organization that aims to serve as Orange County’s premier eco-educational learning center and is driven to inspire and educate people across Southern California communities in the areas of environmental sustainability and stewardship. By providing hands-on activities, quarterly exhibits, on-site demonstrations and informational seminars promoting practical and ecologically sound solutions for the household and community.

They need volunteers for the following tasks:
•Gardening
•Docents for the exhibits and tours
•Handymen (and women) for numerous maintenance projects

Let them know what your interests are and your time commitment, and they’ll match you with a task that’ perfect for everyone.

Call David at (949) 369-1964 to volunteer

Here is a direct link to buy Organic product on our site!

Check out our last Ecology Center Blog: blog.killerdana.com/?paged=5

“What am I going to do today?” That was the first question that popped into my head when I saw that the waves were absolutely crappy: super windy, with huge sets closing out the whole pass. Great… I didn’t feel like going hiking or biking, these are good for my Monday to Friday workout sessions, not for my fun and exciting week-ends!! Damn… what to do then?

I went back home, walked all the way to our private beach (he he!!), and planted my behind in the sand. I was sulking, like a spoiled little girl: “I can’t play today, and it’s not fair!!” I stayed there, staring at the turquoise lagoon and listening to the wind in the coconut trees when I realized there was something I actually could do: kite boarding!!

Photo: Vainui

A girlfriend of mine had been talking about it for a while, saying that we should go and try the sport together. But I was like: “Naahh, kite boarding looks boring. You go right, left, right, left…and all this gear; kite, bar, harness, board, flotation vest, helmet… no thank you, I’m fine with my surfboard and my tiny bikinis!” But well, that day was a good day to try, since there was nothing more interesting to do. I grabbed my cell phone, searched for the instructor’s phone number my friend had given me a few weeks ago (“just in case you change your mind” she said), and booked my very first lesson for the same day.

But then, I paused for a minute, thinking about what I was about to do: trying something new, something I hadn’t done in a while: I was going to an unknown territory (the kite beach), trying a new toy (the kite), with total strangers (my instructor and all the kite boarders around). Wow, that was a lot for me at that moment…”there are probably lots of people over there, they’re going to look at me during my lesson. OMG, I am going to make a fool of myself! What about this instructor, is he patient (better be with a student like me)? Is he nice? And the most important question; is he cute? And if he is… oh no, I don’t want to look ridiculous in front of a hottie!! I don’t want to go… I’m not going!” But well, I had booked my lesson, and didn’t want to call the guy back. Plus I couldn’t find a great excuse for not showing up.

Tamatoa Gillot Photo:Vainui

I arrived at the kite beach around noon and looked around to try and find my instructor. I was a bit anxious and started to think: “if I don’t move and just stay there, under that coconut tree, maybe he won’t notice me… and I won’t have to go”.
“Vainui?” Crap, a guy is calling my name. And oh no, he IS cute.

“Yes, it’s me. I guess you’re my instructor?

“Yes, everything is ready, hop on the boat.”

Huh? What boat? Where are we going anyway?” I asked.

“I give my lessons next to the motu  (tiny islands made of sand that you find in the lagoons and/or next the passes), we can not do it here, there are too many kite boarders and swimmers”  Cool, I thought, at least I wouldn’t be ridiculous in front of too many people…

Tamatoa Gillot Photo:Vainui

It took us a mere 5 minutes to reach the motu and anchor the boat. Just a few minutes to set the kite and receive the first safety instructions, and I was in the water, holding the bar with that big orange kite flying above my head. I was like: “Wow, it looks pretty (told you I was still a little girl)!!” And really it was… I guess that’s why I fell in love with the sport: seeing that big toy flying in the sky, so gracefully going left and right, doing loops, as I was moving the bar, with the sound of the wind in my ears, was just great. It really looked like a dance to me, with all the coconut trees in front of us, moving as well.  I did all the exercises for 2 hours, from doing “eights” with the kite to body dragging (when you’re being pulled by the kite with your whole body in the water) and absolutely loved them.  I was used to playing with the waves and now I was also playing with the wind… such a great feeling.

The lesson ended, and as my instructor was packing everything back in the boat, I took some time to look around me: the motu, the turquoise lagoon, the kids playing on the beach, the kite boarders riding and jumping over the boats (don’t do that at home, those guys are freaks!!) and the clear-blue sky… once again everything was perfect just the way it was. Nothing needed to be changed: I had a great time and a good workout as well (I had to walk backwards to my starting point quite a few times, in waist high water), in a great environment, with a great instructor. At that moment, I couldn’t be happier.

I’m going to pass on the next lessons, because they were pretty much all the same, and I’m a bit ashame to tell you that it took me a looooonnnnggg time to figure out to manage the kite AND the board at the same time (talk about a surfer!).  I’m not going to tell you how many lessons I’ve booked, but I can tell you that I made my instructor rich!!

Tamatoa Gillot Photo:Vainui

Thanks to the many hours I’ve spent in the water, I’m definitely getting better, riding in gutsy conditions (up to 30 knots, ha!) and jumping higher and higher (OK, no kite loops for now… but soon!!!).  Really, I love the sport for all the sensations it gives you, for that feeling you get when the wind pulls your body out of the water, for all the speed you can gain, and above all, for the fact that you can fly!!! You’re in the air, looking around, you have the best view of the beach, and you feel great… you feel free. As for the gear, I decided to let go of the helmet & flotation vest (although I would strongly recommend to wear these; be smart, DON’T do what I do) and to ride in my tiny bikinis. Yes, I’m well known for not wearing much in the water: when people talk about me, it’s like “hey, you know, the girl who surfs and kites with a bikini”. I know that the other girls don’t like it… but it’s also part of the fun (he he!!).

Vainui

PS: the cute instructor was also a good reason to book so many lessons 

I recently hooked up with Joey Santley of Green Foam Blanks, and was immediately impressed by their program. As the environmental editor for killerdana.com, I am constantly looking for ways that individuals can go green for a better future. Green Foam Blanks is definitely part of the solution. Their program takes all of the foam dust used in surfboard shaping that would normally end up in landfills, and recycles it into new blanks. When you factor in the number of shapers in California alone, the amount of foam shavings is measured in tons – material that would normally be discarded as waste.

One of the challenges to producing a recycled foam blank is obviously quality. Joey and his partner Steve have, through research, design, trial and error, created an eco-conscious surfboard blank that fits all the criteria demanded by world-class surfers and shapers: they are durable, lightweight, workable, and cost effective. One of my personal goals was to lessen my carbon footprint with this board, and because the foam came from shapers like Timmy Patterson and Matt Biolos of Lost, who shape in San Clemente, and Green Foam manufactures their blanks right here, the transportation costs involved in my surfboard blank were negligible. I am also very committed to supporting local businesses and our local surfing community, and using this process creates a win for all involved.

Green Foam is actually white. Photo:G-Dub

Master shaper Timmy Patterson is one of my very best friends, and has been shaping my surfboards most of my life. He knows what I like, and for this one we decided on a 5’11” Rising Sun model, one of his most popular shapes, and one I actually haven’t ridden yet but can’t wait to try!  The Green Foam blank looks a little different, because there are bits of stringer wood and different colored glue bits encased throughout the foam, since it is recycled, but the board shaped beautifully, with no nicks or soft spots, and is also very light, so I’m stoked about that. We’re going to glass it using Hemp fiberglass, further reducing the use of petroleum based materials for my new board.

Timmy Patterson has been one of the ‘greenest’ surfboard manufactures around for many years: he’s been using recycled materials for his shaping bays, low wattage fluorescent lighting, rebuilt tools and planers for shaping, cleaner vacuums for minimizing foam dust, and basically following the Hawaiian tradition of using whatever materials are available, without having to buy expensive and less environmentally efficient products. He does it to save costs, and is quite amused that his way has become the new, trendy, ‘green’ movement of today. I was stoked when Timmy agreed to shape my board with the Green Foam blank, and he now has an option available to him to build an environmentally friendly product using locally produced, recycled waste material.

Can I have your autograph please? Photo:G-Dub

If you are interested in Green Foam blanks, their website is www.greenfoamblanks.com. They also reuse foam dust for municipal projects like pavement fillers, and as a very effective insulation for refrigerated trucks: go visit www.resurf.org for some interesting info about these uses of recycled foam.

World-class surfboard shaper Timmy Patterson has made surfboards for Killer Dana Surf Shop since we opened in 1991: you can order them from us or directly from his shop at www.tpattersonsurfboards.com. If you’d like to try a Green Foam blank, simply contact our shop through our website or at the stores, and ask that we use the Green Foam blank for your new custom surfboard.

Cheers! GW

I haven’t written that many blogs so far but I’m pretty sure that I’ve used the words “perfect waves”, “clear water”, “barrels”, “beautiful”, “magic”, at least 100 times. It’s not that I’m trying to make you jealous or anything, I just know how lucky I am to live in Tahiti; all these words that I’ve written so many times, they are the ones that define my ocean country best. Every session is a rush of adrenaline and endorphins, and a rush of pure joy as well, especially when it’s just me and my friends in the water, enjoying a great sunset session (here I go again!).

But surfing isn’t always that great: I’m not talking about crappy conditions, more about the fact that some days, you paddle out and literally risk your life. I’ve done it a few times, going out on big days, not really knowing where to sit or what to do, trying to avoid every single set coming through because it was just so big the whole time. It will go flat for 30 minutes, and all of a sudden a set rolls in, big, unexpected, terrifying. Yes, terrifying, because a 10ft wave coming towards a shallow reef generates a huge amount of power: you can feel this energy rising, even before the wave breaks; if the size of the wave scares you, the power generated around you is definitely part of the equation.

Now I find myself thinking about that day… the kind of day you remember your whole life, but not for the good reasons. I was spending a few days in Moorea, Tahiti’s “sister island”, that you can reach in 30 minutes with the ferry; it was another beautiful day and I was more than determined to go surfing.

I parked my car at my friend’s surf lodge, right in front of my favorite break, and looked at the waves, just waiting for a set so I would know what board I should use (I had everything in my car, from 6’3” to 6’9”). There was definitely some size, maybe a solid 6ft, and my 6’5” appeared as my best bet. I waxed my board, put my sunscreen on, locked my car, walked to the beach and started paddling. I have no boat, and from the beach, it takes me about 30 minutes to reach the waves. Talk about a warm up!

Yeah, I’d be scared. Photo: Fabrice Chiausa

As I was approaching the pass, I noticed those big “packs” of white water floating around like foam, and that current… pulling me outside, and fast. I was like “ what is that?  It’s not big enough for this kind of stuff to happen. I think I missed something.”

My very good friend Aken had just taken a wave on his stand-up paddle board and was going back to the peak when he saw me. He looked at me, laughed nervously and said:

-“It’s big!”
-“Uhh… what do you mean, big?
- It’s just big! You can try, but… it’s big!!

Ok, I got his point: it was big. How come I hadn’t seen anything the whole time I was paddling then? Actually, I know why: when it gets that big (10 ft +), the sets come every 30 to 40 minutes; just the time it took me to paddle from the beach to the break, ha!!

So I started to think about what I should be doing… because I was also starting to feel all this energy around me, with all this water moving: “I should go back, it’s not safe and my board is too small. No, I can’t, the guys know that I’m there, I can’t disappear like that… they are going to make fun of me if I leave.” And from there, my decision was made (didn’t tell you I was stupid, huh?).

Mutating. Don’t be there. Photo: Fabrice Chiausa

I wasn’t yet at the peak… I had a look around me and saw another friend of mine, sitting way outside. I decided to paddle in his direction & to stay next to him, knowing that he will keep an eye on me for sure.

-Hello, how’s the surf? I asked, hoping to get a relieving answer.
-It’s pretty good, we’ve been having fun so far.
-Oh Ok, maybe it wasn’t that bad after all.

I barely had enough time to sit on my board before THE SET came. I swear, it was the biggest wave I had ever seen from that close: all I could see was a huge blue wall coming towards me; my heart started pounding like never before, I looked at my friend, looked left, looked behind me, trying to find a way to escape the thing, but there was no exit, no way to get around it! I started paddling towards the wave as fast as I could, with as much strength and power as I could gather. I paddled & paddled, got closer to the wave, looked up, saw the lip coming down on me and duck dived. I managed to pass the wave, but there was no way I could escape the second one:  it was too big, and too far.

Heavy. Photo: Thierry Tching

I’ve never been that scared before; I couldn’t breathe properly, maybe I was hyperventilating, I don’t know… I saw the lip about to break on my head and tried to dive as deep as possible, but it was useless: I felt my right leg being pulled by my leash and my body followed in a quarter of second. I spent so much time underwater, being pulled every which way, for what seemed like hours, not knowing where I was, feeling my lungs burning in my rib cage; I hadn’t imagined that being underwater for so long could hurt that much.

Then everything stopped; it was so calm all of a sudden… I managed to swim back to the surface, but just to see that other wave coming down on me. And yes, again, I spent a lot of time under water, with my lungs still burning… I ended up pretty close to the reef, and all in all I guess I was lucky that day. I could have been drilled onto the reef & received a few bones broken in the process; I had nothing, not even a tiny scratch. But I didn’t care: I was still in a heavy situation, the current pulling me outside, taking me back to the peak. I paddled towards the reef (note believing my leash & my board were still in one piece) hoping to get a medium wave, which would take me closer to the lagoon, and out of this current. And fortunately I got this wave and even found a guy to give me a lift on his boat.  “Yes, on a boat, and still alive. Life is good!”

I wanted to tell you that story because I think that sometimes we’re not always aware of what we’re doing: we think that the risks we take are calculated, and that whatever happens, it’s going to be all right. But it isn’t always so. When you play with Mother nature, whatever the size of the waves, you don’t control anything, you do not decide whether it’s going to be fine or not. So, when you’re not sure about the conditions, take your time to carefully evaluate the situation, be honest with yourself and your abilities, and make a decision from there: life is great, we practice one of the best sports in the world (along with kite boarding!), so make sure you do everything you can to enjoy it as long as possible. I’ve learned my lesson.

Vainui

Note for the future: when Aken tells you its big, it’s not big, it’s HUGE!!

For more Thierry Tching photots, check out thierrytching.com
Surfer: Didier TinHin

Our favorite Killerdana grom Reilly Saur (aka The Baby Bird) just just got back from a late summer trip to Mainland Mex. He spent two weeks south of the border longboarding 1/4 mile right points, fishing for lobsters, and eating like a little prince….. Jelly yet?

The fishing was INSANE! Tuna were practically jumping onto hooks but the real prize were the lobsters….and there were plenty. SO RAD.

There were a couple keepers. I think Reilly’s plaid boardies may have been a good luck charm this day?…or maybe it was the hat? Who cares…look at that thing!!!

When the swell picked up, the Bird managed to get some boogie time in. Usually friends don’t let friends ride sponges…. but he ’s got some skills so I don’t razz the kid too much.

-Garret